To go to Togo

Funny right? If you say Togo slowly it sounds like “To Go”. Ok, actually it’s not that funny. But it gave us a good laugh. Spent the weekend in Togo. Very interesting and different country.

I traveled with Kaisa, Rochelle and Jessica. So the same quartet I traveled with to Cape Coast last weekend.
I studied with Kaisa and Rochelle in Canada at Simon Fraser University. They are both UWC’ers. Rochelle and I also studied together in Norway, so we’ve known each other for a while. Jessica is Canadian, studies in Montreal and speaks French. A good skill to have when going to a Francophone country.

So off we went in a little “Tro-Tro” (Mini vans with rows of homemade seats, functioning as a bus) to the Togolese border. The rural areas of Ghana are significantly poorer than Accra, yet still more developed than Sierra Leone. The road was paved all the way, and most villages and cities had electricity. A thing Togo did not. Not even in Lomé, the Capital.

We made it to Togo about 5pm. The border crossing was a joke. The Togolese immigration office consists of two tables standing under a small thatched roof. I wasn’t allowed to take a picture, but it was so strange. Standing there in the open filling out Visa forms. We filled out our papers and paid the 10.000 West African Francs the Visa cost. In most (all?) Francophone countries in West Africa they use the same currency, the West African Franc, which should make trade and traveling between the countries a lot easier (haven’t tried myself yet – so can’t tell for sure).

Lomé is essentially on the border – which meant we could walk from the border to our hostel. Quite convenient.
People in Togo are very friendly, and in many ways less harassing and direct than people in Ghana. Personally I was not too comfortable with the country in the beginning, but I think it mainly stems from the fact that I don’t speak French (and hate admitting to people that I don’t speak their language). It makes you feel very handicapped, when you have no clue what people are telling you. Not sure how we would have survived without Jessica’s help in a country where people barely speaks English.
About Lomé: It is a lot smaller than Accra, but still in some respects a very beautiful city. Unfortunately due to several years of political unrest and bad economic policies the cities has been allowed to fade. You can sense that it used to be a grand and magnificent city once upon a time. Which sadly enough is the feeling you get in many African cities. Things where built in better times, but never maintained.

In on the Friday in Lomé we visited a Fetish (in the French meaning of the word – i.e. “object of spiritual meaning” or something like that) market. Many people in Togo still swear to the old traditional beliefs. A part of this belief involves buying lots of small articles to protect yourself and your house and to cure you from diseases and curses. Some of these things are quite obscure. How about the head of a monkey? Or what about the claw of an eagle? For not to mention the shell of a turtle, the skin of a leopard, a horse skull, some snake skin, or maybe just a dead owl on a stick. . . .?
(They wanted money for pictures, so unfortunately I don’t have any, but there are a few good ones here: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/shared/spl/hi/picture_gallery/05/africa_togo0s_voodoo_market/html/1.stm and here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pritheworld/3351359593/in/photostream/ )
We went to see the “chief/medicine man” who told us about these small items with magical properties (which he of course tried to sell us): The ebony fruit/nut makes you sleep better if blessed by the chief, the telephone fetish (little piece of pink wood), provides safe travels if you whisper in it and so on. Could not really make up my mind as to whether this was a tourist scam or whether people really believed in it – but interesting non the less. Yet , it didn’t really seem like a place many tourists came. The market was too hard to find, and too big to only survive on tourism.

Saturday morning we went to a West African Art/Culture museum. The museum was founded by a Swiss anthropologist who wanted to give African Art back to Africa. He has spent the last couple of years traveling in West Africa collecting old cultural items and art pieces. A few years ago he opened his private collection to the public, essentially turning it into a museum. Very interesting to see all the strange and different statues, bracelets, helmets etc that the various cultures used for ceremonies.
After the museum trip we bargained with a cab driver and made him drive us 2 hours north to the city Kpalimé (pronounced Palime), for the same price the bus would have cost us.

Kpalimé is very different from Lomé and a lot smaller. Located in a lush green region of hills and cocoa farmers it is the center of agricultural commerce in Togo. This was very visible from the fantastic agricultural market in the center of the village. Fruits, vegetables and spices everywhere. In addition the beautiful location, the people were a lot more friendly and relaxed (Perhaps, more a country-side mentality than a clear cultural difference).

We spent the night in Kpalimé. Sunday morning we did a hike in the beautiful countryside. We simply caught a ride 20 minutes out of town where we found a little path, which we followed it up along a mountainside. On out little hike, between banana and mango trees, we found a ripe cocoa that we shared next to a little waterfall. Not the worst lunch. On the way back we must have touched some poisonous tree or bush, cause all of us had red spots on our arms and legs (We are all still alive).

When we got back to Kpalimé we caught the oldest and most rusty car I’ve ever seen in my life to the Ghanaian border (100km North of Lomé). Here the Ghanaian border officials joked with us and took down out names from the Declaration Card so they could find us on Facebook. They also wanted our numbers. I took down one guy’s number, and when I didn’t to call him later that night, he called me monday morning and complained. (He must have taken my number off the Declaration Card!) A little weird, but a normality by now. Many people want to make “professional friends” with you. He called me and asked how I was and said he would call when he came to Accra so we could meet. I spoke to the guy for about 1 minute when I filled out the declaration form. Not the way I usually make friends.

We however made it safely back to Accra with a Tro-Tro sunday night, and all in all had a great trip to Togo. Bon Voyage!